Carlos Miele Fall 2010 Runway Show — Abstract Expression
When I left the Carlos Miele Fall 2010 show at Bryant Park, I felt so grateful to be a woman, to have those soft curves and that innate feminine grace and sensuality, all of Miele manages to celebrate in his garments. For this collection, Miele drew inspiration from constructive artists hailing from his native Brazil, such as perhaps Mauricio Nogueira Lima, Lygia Pape, or Helio Oiticica. The geometric art inspiration was most apparent in the last pieces showcased, such as the finale strapless charmeuse gown with multi-color panels pictured above. I loved the slightly retro color combination — the red, fuchsia pink, turquoise, purple and black hues— and how the panels were constructed to accentuate the bust and add shapeliness to the hips and rear.
But while those colorful garments with geometric patterns really popped on the runway, there were may pieces with more of a quite storm thunder. Take, for example, a light gold silk charmeuse cropped bolero jacket with undulating loop details (pictured fourth below), constructed in a sculptural fashion so that each vertical stripe took on a wave-like shape and boasted its own peaks and crevices, and which featured a black chain appliqué (one of the embellishments that tied the whole collection together). A black bolero jacket with the same loop detailing and chain appliqué was also stunning, particularly when the short sleeves were given a poofy shape and the neckline was raised to create a more dramatic, almost ruffle-like effect. Even the evening gowns were detailed with a thin black chain appliqué, and this design detail really helped to create a sense of cohesiveness that might not otherwise have existed.
Though Miele excels at extremely feminine pieces such as dresses and cropped jackets, he did showcase versatility with outerwear pieces like a lush taupe mink capelet or a chunky, hand-knitted purple wool coat.
My only critique was that the collection was pretty safe for Miele, who usually shows at least a handful of jaw-dropping, laboriously detailed, romantic pieces and who tends to opt for a more vivid color palette (save for a handful of pieces, the collection was centered on black, light gold, purple, and taupe). Then again, that’s been true of almost every designer’s Fall 2010 collection, as marketability seems to be overshadowing risk-taking artistry in fashion. It’s perhaps a restraint that speaks to the times in which we live, but I personally long for a return to the extravagance and the spectacle of the runway.
Still, Miele’s technical dexterity and his understanding of the female form and how to make a woman feel empowered and feminine, was as impressive as ever. Check out some of the photos here, as well as the video clip above capturing the finale walk at the runway show.
Some Fab Looks: