Backstage At Vena Cava SS11 Show — A Scarface-Inspired Affair
When brainstorming alongside Ted Gibson, Nonie Creme of Butter London, and MAC Cosmetics about the ideal beauty look for their Spring 2011 collection, Vena Cava designers Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock settled on a high glamour look inspired by Michelle Pfeiffer‘s character Elvira Hancock in the 1983 film Scarface.
Models rocked smoke,y dark navy blue shadow along the lids, contoured in such a manner as to create an elongated cat’s eye, and accentuated with a touch of glossy silver along the inner corners. Cheeks were heavily contoured, with blush applied in a diagonal shape, following the natural ridge of the cheekbone, and a peach shade swept along the apples of the cheeks. Lips were painted a neon orange shade and blotted for a matte lip stain effect.
The hair, meanwhile, was teased and twisted into a messy, textured bun, and then headwraps in coral red or black were wrapped around each model’s head for a very resort-ready feel. As for nails, the models flaunted half moon manicures in contrasting putty taupe and matte black.
For more details on the looks and the products used to achieve them, more backstage photos, and step-by-step breakdowns, keep reading after the jump!
Christian McCulloch led the MAC Cosmetics team backstage, creating the look shown above — a modernized interpretation of ’80s high glamour (think Dynasty).
The eyes were the major focal point in the look. McCulloch started out by lining both the upper and lower lids with the Blooz Eye Kohl, applying various thick layers. He then brushed the dark navy blue Contrast Eye Shadow on top of the liner, sweeping the color all over the lid and along the crease and extending it to create a bit of an exaggerated, rounded “V” shape along the outer corners for that feline effect. This shadow was also blended with Prussian and Shadowy Lace eye shadow hues to create a smoky blue eye. Next, to add some shimmer and make the whole eye pop, he applied the Dalliance Mega Metal Shadow (which will be available in 2011) to the inner corners of the eyes. In the same theme, he applied a metallic silver Paint Pot shade, Dangerous Cuvee (also new for 2011) to the inner corners of the eyes and blended it along the lids, working it towards the center. To finish the eyes, he applied two coats of black Haute and Naughty Lash mascara to lashes.
The skin, meanwhile, was left rather fresh and dewy (not a ton of foundation or base powder), but there was quite a bit of cheek color in play. McCulloch and his team applied the MAC Uncommon Blushcreme along cheekbones, creating a dramatic, slanted look, then swept the MAC Dainty Mineralize Blush, a soft, shimmering peach hue, along the apples of the cheeks.
To provide contrast against the dark eyes, he applied Morange lipstick on lips and blotted to create a matte finish.
Check out one of the artist’s makeup stations:
Here’s a MAC makeup artist applying eyeshadow:
A model gets her blush touched up:
One of my favorite models of the day waits to have her look finished up:
From a profile view, the eyeshadow looks even more elegant:
Nonie Creme of Butter London was beyond crafty when preparing for her newest Vena Cava show. Rather than creating a custom blended color for the show, as in previous seasons, she created a newer look: the half moon manicure, which has been slowly gaining popularity over the last few seasons. To create the look, two nail lacquers were used: Yummy Mummy, a grayish nude shade, and Union Jack Black, a slick, patent leather black shade applied in a curved strip along the base of the nail (right by the cuticle) for an inverted French manicure effect.
But since Nonie is such a genius, she took all the necessary steps to make the minimize backstage chaos for the Butter London team. Rather than trying to pull off half moon manicures on the models’ real nails (a time consuming endeavor that requires tons of precision), she purchased a massive amount of stick-on nails and painted them as desired. All her team had to do, then, was press these pre-painted nails onto models’ fingernails and, if needed, file down along the sides until the fit was perfect.
To pull off the look at home, Nonie recommends stocking up on stick-on nails (the kind that require no additional glue and that dry within seconds) and making sure they’re of a modest length (otherwise, the look will be far from refined). Once you have the nails, it’ll be much easier to arrange them along a flat surface (such as a table), and paint them as desired.
Here are the nails manicurists were carrying around:
Here’s a look at a nail tray:
For the Vena Cava show, the ever fabulous Ted Gibson created a textured bun. To get the look, he brushed models’ hair into a low ponytail and then teased the top half of the long ponytail, tying an elastic band along the center of the ponytail so as to secure the teased section. He then teased the lower half of the ponytail, giving it a roughed-up feel and once again secured the section. Once the ponytail had been teased, he twisted it into a bun, making sure that the loose, free-flying hairs were visible to the eye, and secured the hair with bobby pins.
Out favorite part, however, were the headbands he tied around models’ heads, which he twisted in such a way as to resemble turbans for a very lounging-by-the-pool effect.
Below, check out Gibson tying the red fabric along a models’ head: