Glossy Dark Eyes And Deep Matte Lips At Marc Jacobs Spring 2011
For Spring 2011, in one of his most remarkable collections to date, Marc Jacobs toasted ’70s glamour, referencing everything from Jodie Foster’s character in Taxi Driver (think wide-brimmed hats and large floral prints) to Donna Summer’s “I Feel Love” single cover (remember the peasant-yet-haute feel of her bronzed brown, tiered ruffle skirt she wore in the photo?), Studio 54 glitz, the British Glam Rock movement (think David Bowie as Ziggy Stardust), and the luxe peasant look pioneered by Yves Saint Laurent (visualize peasant skirts, floral choker necklaces, off-the-shoulder blouses, and more). Through shimmering fabrics, floral adornments, feathered details, and a sunny palette of burgundy, Studio 54-ready gold, poppy red, magenta, mustard yellow, bronzed brown, and orchid pink, Jacobs fostered a festive, whimsical ambiance.
To complement the pieces in Jacobs’ Spring 2011 collection without overpowering them, the brilliant François Nars looked to Anjelica Huston for inspiration — and, judging from the look he created alongside his NARS Cosmetics team, he was particularly smitten with the iconic image of Huston on the cover of The Independent. In the close-up photo, the brim of Huston’s striped floppy hat is barely visibly, while choppy bangs cover her thick brows, leading the viewer’s gaze to Huston’s mysterious eyes, the lids of which are covered in dark, glossy shadow. Her hands cupping her face, Huston is shown holding a cigarette in between her fingers and exhaling a cloud of smoke, her lips parted ever so seductively. François Nars, then, bestowed a similar look upon the Marc Jacobs models, focusing on bleached brows, glossy lids, and matte lips in a deep Merlot color. The effect was positively smoldering, bringing to mind images of Bianca Jagger (a well-known lover of blood red lipstick) and Jerry Hall, along with Huston herself.
To create the look, Nars prepped models’ faces with the NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer (new for Spring 2011) and swept the iconic golden peach NARS Orgasm Blush on cheeks. On the eyes, Nars applied NARS Night Porter Eyeshadow, blending with the abysmal olive NARS Nouveau Monde Duo Eyeshadow (new for Spring 2011). Next, he lined the upper and lower lash lines with the NARS Celebrate Soft Touch Shadow Pencil (new for Spring 2011), a sparkly chartreuse green, blending the hue with the Eyeliner Pencil in Black Moon and smudging the lines to create a lived-in, late-into-the-party effect. The shadows were applied in such a way as to follow the eye’s natural almond shape, which only added to the look’s intensity. For the final touch, he applied a few coats of NARS Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara.
The blotted burgundy lips, meanwhile, were created using a combination of: NARS Volga Pure Matte Lipstick, a matte wine red; NARS African Queen Lip Liner Pencil, a brick red hue; and NARS Mambo Eyeliner Pencil, a chocolate-y brown shade. The color was then blotted to give the lips a stain-like effect.