Frosted Pale Silver Lids And Muted, Yellow-ish Orange Lips At Yeohlee Fall 2011
When designing her Fall 2011 collection, Malaysian-born, New York City-based designer Yeohlee Teng, the creative force behind 20-year-old fashion label Yeohlee drew inspiration from the Singing Ringing Tree sculpture atop Lancaster’s Crown Point. Completed in 2006, the 3-meter-tall sculpture was crafted using galvanized steel pipes laid horizontally and stacked atop each other in a swirling, tree-like formation. When the wind blows through the pipes, they emit a vibrating, humming sound that’s both strange and fascinating. Her apparel, then, featured a wealth of gray and silver pieces nodding to the sculpture’s metallic backbone, resembling liquid metal against the skin, as well as garments in brassy taupes and tans, snowy white and crisp black. The silhouettes, meanwhile, often incorporated cylindrical pant or sleeve shapes or shroud-like, ballooning waistlines resembling the sculpture’s spiraling, dense “treetop” section.
When discussing makeup looks with MAC Cosmetics’ key makeup artist Itsuki, then, Teng described her inspiration, sending Itsuki a plethora of photos capturing the details of the Singing Ringing Tree sculpture. The inspiration proved contagious, as it prompted Itsuki to take on a near-impossible feat: interpreting the sound of the wind blowing through the sculpture’s metal pipes, capturing that hollow and instrumental sound, via the makeup look deigned.
Itsuki started out envisioning light gray, almost silvery lids that would not only reference the sculpture’s metal tones but would create a chilly, frosty sensation fitting for an autumn collection. Lips, meanwhile, were imbued with a creamy pale orange color with yellow undertones that would look like it had melted onto models’ pouts.
To give the models’ fresh, dewy complexions, Itsuki started out by applying MAC Face And Body Foundation, using Studio Finish Concealer to diminish the appearance of dark under-eye circles, and dusting on Prep + Prime Finishing Powder to set the makeup and control shine. Next, she applied MAC Blushcream in Ladyblush and Shell Cream Colour Base along cheekbones, trying to create the right combination for each model that would only steer one or two degrees from her natural skin color, for a natural look that wouldn’t seem too “done up” or “makeup-y.”
On eyes, Itsuki used MAC’s Pure White Chromaline mixed with MAC’s Black Paintstick for a light gray shade. Next, she applied MAC Pro Pure White Chromagraphic Pencil on the inner rims of the lower lash line, adding a snowy sensation. Last, she applied a coat of MAC Plush Lash mascara in Plushblack to lashes for definition and emphasis.
To create the yellowish, peachy orange color on lips, Itsuki blended the MAC Pro Paint Sticks in Primary Yellow and Genuine Orange with MAC’s Hush Cream Colour Base, a rosy nude shade, then blotted the lips to yield that melted-on look, as if the skin itself radiated those tones.
Check out more photos from backstage after the jump and don’t miss Itsuki herself describing the look in the video above!