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The Makeup At Mandy Coon Fall 2011 Runway Show — “Blade Runner” Replicant Meets Punk Rebel




Fueled by her love of vintage clothing, her admiration for the unfettered ease of Bohemian French fashion, and her love of punk, New Wave, and electronica music (she was a member of all-girl electroclash group W.I.T. and graced the covers of indie mags like The Fader, The Face, and Paper), New York-based, Texan designer Mandy Coon has quickly risen to the top of the downtown darling crop with an aesthetic that marries fist-pumping, finger glove-wearing, tough-talkin’ punk elements with romantic fare like free-flowing, ethereal silhouettes, clean and soft necklines, flounced hemlines, body-conscious draping, and the occasional ruffle trim or bow adornment.

For her Fall 2011 collection, Coon crafted a film noir-flavored collection inspired by photos of manta rays, sticking to a dark palette consisting mainly of black with pops of camel, brown, and Bordeaux red, as well as a ’70s-style print consisting of a sandy beige backdrop with tie-dyed, zig-zagging lines in sepia, chestnut brown, and graphite black. Ballooning skirts, furry capes with asymmetrical cuts yielding a winged effect, and contrasting fabrics and textures all spoke to the manta ray visual that functioned as the backbone of Coon’s collection, while a heavy futuristic tone was added via pieces like a slim-fitting, long-sleeved, black leather blouses with a sheer U-shaped neckline and an asymmetrical jacket with ruched sleeves, a hood and harness-like, straitjacket-worthy leather straps criss-crossed across the chest.

To correspond with the sci-fi and punk elements of Coon’s clothing, NARS makeup artist Francelle Daly crafted a minimalist look that focused on a futuristic, “inside-out” cat eye. The top and bottom lash lines were coated with Via Veneto Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner (a new Fall 2011 launch) and Santa Monica Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner (also new for Fall 2011). To give the look the necessary, Blade Runner-worthy darkness, Daly lined the bottom lash line, staying close to the lashes and retaining the eye’s natural almond shape. She then lined the upper lash line, again staying close to lashes but extending the line at the inner and outer corners of eyes, turning down dramatically next to the tear ducts and along the ridge of the nose while reversing the stroke at the outer corners, curving the liner upwards. Next, Daly took a thicker eyeliner pencil and, starting at eyes’ outer corners (from the top tip of the previously drawn line), she applied the black color in a downwards arch, ending the stroke along the inside of the eyes so that this new line would practically touch the previously made curve at the tear ducts. The gap in between the two strong lines yielded empty, negative space on the lids that kept the look modern and artful, while staying true to the cyborg punk theme.

Since eyes were the focal point of the beauty look, Daly kept the other cosmetics products to a minimum, adding just a hint of color with the Pago Pago lipstick (a new color for Fall 2011 that’s reminiscent of the existing Cruising shade, a sheer, slightly rosy nude).

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