Porcelain Skin and Mascara Overload at Honor Spring 2012 Show
As soon as I saw the mascara-heavy makeup look created for the HONOR Spring 2012 show, I thought of Mod era icon Twiggy — or, more specifically, of the way she appeared when photographed by Barry Lategan in 1966.
HONOR designer Giovanna Randall wanted to counteract the precious, dainty, girlish quality of her collection via the makeup looks created, hoping that models could be made to resemble “angry dolls that had been played with too much, not precious dolls that sat on a shelf.” Working off of this vision, NARS Director of Global Artistry James Boehmer designed a look that incorporated Randall’s doll-like idea via porcelain skin but added an off-kilter, slightly demented, Clockwork Orange-y effect via the abundant use of mascara.
Using Catherine Deneuve and Penelope Tree — both of whom were known in they heyday for sporting thick, exaggerated lashes — as reference points, Boehmer focused on creating the illusion of perfection via smooth skin and just-bitten lips, then subverted this visual with messy, drawn-on eyelashes and an overdose of mascara.
To create the desired texture for the skin, Boehmer used the NARS Tinted Moisturizers that will debut in Spring 2012 and the dusted the face with Loose Powder. No blush or bronzer was used atop it, so that skin looked completely even in terms of tone, with no specific areas highlighted.
Lips, meanwhile, were given a slight rosy tinge with the Valparaiso Pure Matte Lipstick, a sheer, soft black cherry-ish shade with a matte finish.
On eyes, meanwhile, Boehmer applied the NARS Douceur Blush, a very soft, almost flesh-like pink brown with a matte finish. Next, he layered on several eyeliners: the Santa Monica Boulevard Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner, a white shade, and the Rue Bonaparte Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner, an almond shade, were applied and smudged along the lid to illuminate the eye, and then the Black Moon Eyeliner Pencil, a true black color, was applied along the upper and lower lash lines, in a thick and deliberately messy manner.
The key to the look, though, was the mascara. Boehmer applied both the Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara and the Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara along the upper and lower lashes, piling on coat after coat to create the exaggerated and slightly clumpy look.