Film Noir-Inspired Makeup and Hair at Jenny Packham Fall 2012
We couldn’t help but dream of Lauren Bacall’s character in The Big Sleep on February 13th, when designer Jenny Packham showcased her Fall 2012 collection during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York City. Her glamorous 1940s-inspired, Film Noir-anchored collection was among the most brilliant bodies of work seen during Fashion Week and the accompanying makeup and hair looks created for the show also topped our “best of” list.
To recreate one of the most dominant looks of the area, Leonardo Manetti for L’Oreal Professionnel created a pinup-worthy hairstyle consisting of a low ponytail worked into a victory roll and another victory roll at the front of the head, centered atop the forehead.
The makeup look, designed by Talia Shobrook for Laura Mercier , channeled the sinister, morally tenuous mood of the movies in the Film Noir genre, with a smoldering, mysterious eye look and blood red lips being key components.
Before applying any makeup, Shobrook prepped skin with the Laura Mercier Repair Oil-Free Day Lotion, which boasts skin-smoothing anti-aging properties, and the Laura Mercier Repair Eye Creme. Next, she applied a mixture of the Silk Crème Foundation and the Secret Concealer under eyes to camouflage any darkness in this region.
Next, Shobrook focused on making skin appear “pale and dewy with hollowed cheekbones.” To create the sunken cheek effect, Shobrook started by applying a mixture of Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer Compact (new for Fall 2012) shades across the cheekbones, making sure to use tones that were slightly darker than models’ complexions. To emphasize the sculpting, the area around the cheekbones was lightened with the Secret Camouflage concealer. Next, she applied the Laura Mercier Silk Crème Foundation all over the face. Apples of cheeks were given a light flush with the Laura Mercier Crème Smooth Lip Colour (available in Fall 2012) in Pink Blush, a lipstick in a lavender-tinged light pink shade that was blended to intensify the dewiness of the skin. Last, to boost luminosity, she gently dabbed the Laura Mercier Primer Radiance along the nose, chin and cheekbones.
The eyes were the most mysterious, dangerous element of the makeup look. Shobrook started by applying the Laura Mercier Luster Eye Colour in Starfruit across the brow bone and Laura Mercier Luster Eye Colour in Dusk across the lid, outer corner of the eye and under the lower lash line. She then swept Laura Mercier Baked Eye Colour in Violet Sky across the center of the lid. Next, Shobrook lined the entire eye (both the upper and lower lash lines)with Laura Mercier Kohl Eye Pencil in Brown Copper and blended the liner color with Laura Mercier Sequin Eye Colour in Tiger’s Eye. Last, she applied three coats of Laura Mercier Faux Lash Mascara.
And, since the Film Noir femme fatale was out for blood, Shobrook created a succulent pout that felt sanguine but wasn’t an exact replica of the blood red lipstick that was de rigueur in that era, instead representing a modernized take on the ’40s look. Two-toned lips were the essential element of Shobrook’s look. She began by outlining the pout with a mixture of the Cocoa and Merlot shades of the Laura Mercier Crème Smooth Lip Colour (available in Fall 2012), using a lip brush for a precise contour. Next, she filled the pout with the Laura Mercier Crème Smooth Lip Colour in Pink Blush. Last, she dabbed the Laura Mercier Lip Plumper in Pink Pearl to the center of the lips to make them appear fuller and add a hint of come-hither sheen.