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Rodarte Fall 2012 Hair and Makeup Looks — Inspired by the Australian Outback

Designing sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy looked to Australia when creating the Rodarte Fall 2012 collection, referencing the rugged terrains, clay soil lands, mountainous ranges, rugged boulders, sand dunes, and fiery sunsets, and desert vegetation through an earthy color palette, while also incorporating references to Aboriginal art via prints relying on dotted designs (dots being essential to everything from ancient body art to the Papunya paintings created since the 1970s) and to the Victorian fashions of the 19th century colonial period (which were heavily informed by British mode).

To create a makeup look consistent with the designers’ inspiration, makeup artist James Kaliardos, who led the NARS Cosmetics team backstage, focused on a dusty-looking complexion, with bronzed skin and windblown cheeks, adding just a hint of pink at the corner of the eyes to feminize the look and creating a strong lip to convey confidence and adventurousness.

Kaliardos started by applying the  Sheer Glow Foundation to skin, then applied the Laguna Bronzing Powder to cheeks in angular motions, allowing the color to follow the natural slant of the cheekbone and then blending the Madly Blush, a sandy seashell pink hue, along the apples of the cheeks. In keeping with the desired wind-blown look, the bronzing powder was also swept atop eyebrows so that the color covered any gaps within the arch but was also plainly visible above and below the actual brow, as if this tender area of skin has been sunburned.

For the eyes, Kaliardos used the Vent Glacé Duo Eyeshadow (new for Fall 2012) and the Rue Bonaparte Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner, a light almond color used to brighten the inner corners of the eyes. To add a slightly undone yet pretty vibe, he applied the perky pink Gaiety Blush on the outer corners of the eyes. Last, he applied  Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara to lashes.

Lips were kept creamy but matte with the Bolero Velvet Matte Lip Pencil, a pink cantaloupe shade that recalled the coral pink tones of the Australian desert.

The hair look, meanwhile, felt thoroughly modern thanks to the vision of Odile Gilbert, key hair artist for Kérastase.

To create the slightly disheveled faux bob seen during the Rodarte Fall 2012 show, Gilbert and her team started by prepping hair with the Kérastase Nectar Thermique to boost shine and protect hair from the potentially damaging effects of the heat styling tools that would be used. Next, they dabbed on the Kérastase Mousse Volumactive to add body and texture.

Once hair had been properly prepped, the hair styling team separated a small section of hair at the nape of the neck and divided it into two halves, creating a standard braid with the hair in each of these halves. They then wrapped the two braids around each other, creating a spiraling, bun-like shape, and pinned them to the head, making sure that they laid flat against the skull (as pictured in the last photo above).

Next, they created a deep side part and, dividing the hair into sections, curled strands using irons with varying barrel sizes. For the bottom layers of hair, they used irons with smaller barrels while, for the top layer of the head, they turned to a 1-inch barrel curling iron, tilting the tool so that they were, in essence, curling the hair in an upside-down direction. This process gave the curled strands at the top of the head kinkier and more unruly than those at the bottom. Next, curls were brushed out to create rough waves.

The next step was the most crucial since it involved moving section by section and tucking hair ends under, essentially concealing them to make hair appear shorter and create the rounded faux bob shape desired. To give the faux bob a stronger foundation, the ends were pinned to the two braids at the back of the head.

For a windswept effect, Odile an her team used their fingers to rough up the right-hand side of the ‘do, spritzing the Kérastase Double Force Hair Spray to mattify the hair and give the mussy strands greater hold.

Last, Gilbert adorned each faux bob by placing gold bobby pins in a neat row along the right side of the head or creating a cluster of star-shaped hair pins along the left-hand side.

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