The Makeup and Hair At Creatures of the Wind Fall 2012 — A Tale of Fabled Fairies
For their Fall 2012 collection, Christopher Peters and Shane Gabier, the duo behind the fashion label Creatures of the Wind, derived inspiration from a world populated by mythical creatures — more specifically, they referenced Robert Kirk’s Celtic folklore book The Secret Commonwealth of Elves, Fauns and Fairies, which dates back to 17th century Scotland.
When brainstorming with the design duo about the makeup look for the show, held at the Desmond Tutu Center in the Chelsea section of New York City on February 9th, NARS Director of Global Artistry James Boehmer says they kept stumbling upon adjectives like “ethereal,” “transparent,” and “pure,” so that the end result was an understated look that emphasized radiant skin and earthy, angelic eyes.
To give the models luminous skin, Boehmer and the NARS team applied tons of moisturizer to the models’ skin, among them the NARS Luminous Moisture Cream that’s poised to his shelves this fall (for now, try the Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer SPF30), using foundation sparingly, only to hide dark under-eye circles, darkness or redness around the nose, and to conceal any problem areas. No powder, blush, luminizer, or bronzers were applied, keeping the look very natural and almost wet-looking. Similarly, lip glosses and lipsticks were eschewed in favor of a clear lip moisturizer that would make the pout look supple without adding any color or drawing attention.
The focus of the makeup look, then, was the eyes. Boehmer describes the earthy smokey eye look as one that slightly references the ’90s due to the usage of staight, edgy lines, but which appears significantly sheerer and softer. To create the look, he started out by lining eyes with the Mambo Eyeliner Pencil, a rich brown shade, starting at the inner corners of eyes and tracing the area immediately underneath the lower lash line, bringing the pencil color out ever so slightly at the outer corners of eyes. Next, starting at the outer corners of eyes, he then brought the color up through the crease and all the way to the bridge. Then, the outer corners were blocked out ever so slightly. Careful blending soon followed, taking the rich brown and transforming it into a dusky, muted, almost transparent shade. Next, Boehmer applied the Bengali Single Eyeshadow, a tree bark-like brown shade and used it to set the Mambo Eyeliner Pencil. Thanks to the clever blending, the final result was almost Renaissance-like, making eyes look like they were encircled by halos.
To amplify this celestial quality, Boehmer then applied the rose gold shade included in the Kuala Lumpur Duo Eyeshadow and applied it to the inner corners of eyes and all along the brow bone to emphasize the arches. Though an eyeshadow brush was applied to use this metallic shade, Boehmer says it was done in “a very gestural way” so that it looked “like brushstrokes” rather than being fully connected to the rest of the eye look. Last, to give the eyes a wet, dewy quality, Boehmer dabbed on a touch of the NARS Rouge Tribal Larger Than Life Lip Gloss (new for Spring 2012) onto lids. The shimmering, glitter-enhanced, sheer burgundy color added the desired level of transparency, further muting the soft brown hues beneath it. No mascara was applied so as to keep the look youthful and fairy-like.
If the makeup was marked by a minimalist quality, perhaps the opposite could be said of the hair look, which was designed by the brilliant Odile Gilbert. Drawing inspiration from the magical fairy motifs, Gilbert designed an almost Grecian updo incorporating lots of textural elements, among them rough wavy strands and scattered braids, all swept up and adorned with floral pins in a metallic black hue.
To create the look, Gilbert started by applying the Kérastase Mousse Substantive to damp hair so ad to give it more texture, then added the Kérastase Lotion Densitive for added thickness. Rather than blow drying hair with a round or paddle brush, Glbert and her team used their fingers so as to give hair the desired roughness. Next, the hair was divided into sections, sprayed with Kérastase Double Force Control Ultime and curled using finger, with pins keeping the curls in place. When all the hair was set, the pins were removed and the hair was released, then parted to the right with all the hair along the left side of the head and along the crown gathered at the back, and the strands along the right section of the head kept loose.
Next, Gilbert tackled the hair at the back of the head, taking random tiny sections and braiding them, creating at least three braids. The remaining strands were twisted and pinned in a haphazard, off-the-cuff, unstructured manner, then loosely pinned. Next, the braided strands were positioned atop these twisted strands so that they seemed to slither along the back of the head. The braids were secured with hair pins them using hair pin, creating this slightly tangled, romantic-yet-disheveled effect. The hair at the front, left-hand side was then lightly teased and loosely pinned, with small strands twisted under other pieces for an intertwined look that resembled overlapping tree roots or branches. Floral clips were then used to adorn the area along the nape of the neck and the right side of the face, positioned in a curved shape so as to resemble a wreath of blooms. To finish the look and ad shimmer, Gilbert then sprayed the Kérastase Double Force Hairspray.
Speaking to Creatures of the Wind’s dexterity with mixing together colors and patterns, the nail look created for the show involved layering two Essie polished. After applying a base coat, manicurists applied two coats of Essie Sew Psyched, a grayish sage color , followed by a single coat of Essie Mint Candy Apple, a creamy mint green shade reminiscent of ’60s-era Cadillacs. A single coat of Essie Good To Go top coat was brushed atop these layered shades for shimmer and hold.
Check out more photos of the backstage action after the jump and don’t miss our video interview with James Boehmer (embedded above). For constant video footage straight from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2012, check out our YouTube channel: YouTube.com/sickathanaverage1