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Velvet Nails, Crimson Lips, and Spiral Curls at Ruffian Fall 2012

The design duo behind fashion label Ruffian, Brian Wolk and Claude Morais, explored the blurry line between tradition and modernity for Fall 2012, focusing specifically on the British landscape. Initially, they drew inspiration from the massive bronze sculptures Henry Moore erected in grassy expanses near historically rich, grand-looking British estates. Though both the sculptures and the architectural structures behind them conveyed a sense of elegance and wealth, Moore’s pieces represented modernity while the mansions were rooted in tradition and heritage. Rich velvet coats and dresses in black, crimson, and cobalt blue abound in the collection, as do herringbone and tartan prints and plaids — some classic and unassuming, other tailored in unexpected and fresh ways.

The corresponding makeup, hair, and nail looks, then, also saddled the ever-shifting line between old and new. The hair look, designed by Neil Moodie for Bumble and Bumble, involved working the hair into tight spiral curls resembling Shirley Temple’s signature mane, then combing the hair out for an edgier, more laissez-fair vibe. On the makeup front, MAC Cosmetics Pro Team makeup artist James Kaliardos drew inspiration from Moore’s bronze sculpture as well, from both their metallic texture and the way they interacted with light, designing a look that involved radiant skin and glittery metallic eyelids, while also referencing the vampy, seductive glamour of such European film icons as Catherine Deneuve via a luscious red pout.

To create the look, Kaliardos and the MAC Pro Team started by prepping the skin with the MAC Mineralize Charge Water Moisture Gel, then applied two different shades of Matchmaster SPF 15 Foundation to attain the desired coverage. Next, they turned to the MAC Pro Conceal and Correct Palette to camouflage dark under eye circles and small blemishes, and to eradicate any shadowy areas. To contour models’ features, they used two Pro Sculpting Creams, Naturally Defined and Accentuate, blending them with the 168 brush. To highlight the cheekbone, they then dabbed on the Pro Longwear Eyeshadow in Always Sunny and the Cream Colour Base in Pearl, a nacreous white shade. Last, to set the look and control any shine along the T-Zone, they applied a touch of the Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder to this area.

To give the eyes a hint of sparkle, Kaliardos and his team applied the MAC Pressed Pigment in Day Gleam (new for Fall 2012), a glittery bronze-colored loose pigment. For the color to adhere to the eyelids, makeup artists relied on several techniques, applying a hint of foundation to the lid so that the color would stick to this base or wetting their eyeshadow brushes slightly and then dipping the humid brush tips into the pigment containers. Next, they brushed the Always Sunny Pro Longwear Eyeshadow into the crease and underneath the bottom lashline. Next, they coated lashes with a light brown mascara.

The tour de force, however, was the sumptuous red pout, which was created with a combination of the MAC Cherry Lip Pencil and the deliciously creamy MAC Ruffian Lipstick, designed for MAC by the Ruffian team and introduced in Fall 2009.

The combination of red lips and glittery eyelids perfectly spoke to the new-versus-old duality Ruffian explored with its Fall 2012 collection.

The nail look for the show was particularly striking — MAC Cosmetics teamed up with Ruffian to design three sets of self-adhesive nail tips with a delectable velvety texture. Produced in red, sapphire blue, and deep purple, the velvet nails featured a crescent moon shape to make them appear a bit more life-like. No word yet on whether these will be available to the public come Fall 2012, but we’re keeping our fingers crossed (and ready for some velvet!).

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