Bold Red Lips and Glossy Black Lids at Jen Kao Fall 2013
In previous years, fashion designer Jen Kao has opted for rather minimalist makeup looks when showing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week but, for Fall 2013, she told MAC Cosmetics‘ key makeup artist Yadim that she wanted to go a different route and showcase a stronger, more commanding look. Together, the two sat down and looked at images shot by Guy Bourdin and Helmut Netwon, marveling at the power and sophistication of the women they immortalized with their lenses. For the Jen Kao Fall 2013 show, then, as an“ode to ’70s glamour with a bit of a modern twist,” with models sporting strong black eyes and bright red pouts.
To create the graphic smoky eye, Yadim and the MAC Cosmetics team relied mainly on the MAC Feline Kohl Power Eye Pencil, which provides full and opaque coverage with a duo-chrome pearl for a smoky but slightly wet-looking effect, lining the inner rims of lids with the color, then applying it all over the lid, beneath the lower lash line, and around the eye, essentially encircling the eye in the deep black color. Next, using Q-tips, they cleaned up the eyes to create a very graphic, almost almond-like shape. No powder was used to set the black liner since Yadim felt that a bit of streaking and creasing was precisely what gave the look its modern edge and made it feel like this was a “downtown cool girl.” To give the eyes a bit of a greasy quality, then, a bit of MAC Lip Conditioner was dabbed along the center of eyelids right before the models hit the runway. No mascara was applied to lashes so as to keep the look as youthful as possible. Brows, meanwhile, were brushed upward.
In terms of the skin, the emphasis was luminosity and so the MAC Cosmetics team applied just a touch of MAC Face and Body Foundation and concealer as needed, then contoured the face using the MAC Taupe Shape Blush, applying it diagonally under the cheekbones. MAC’s Cream Colour Base in Pearl was then applied to cheekbones, dabbed along the bridge of the nose, worked into the cupid’s bow, and patted on the chin to highlight these areas and illuminate the entire face. To turn up the glam factor even further, they swept a bit of MAC Pink Opal Pigment, a white and frost duochrome color, onto cheekbones.
To complete the look, which was reminiscent of Bianca Jagger during her Studio 54 days, the makeup team created a succulent red lip. They started by applying the MAC Just A Bite Lipstick, a new burgundy red shade that’s hitting shelves later this year, and blended this color with the classic MAC Russian Red, a deep, blue-toned red. Next, they added the MAC Lip Liner in Brick atop these lipstick shades to give the pout even more of a deep, saturated color. Before models hit the runway, a touch of MAC Lipglass in Clear was dabbed to the center of their lips to give them a come-hither sheen.
Check out the backstage photos above and below and don’t miss our video interview with makeup artist Yadim, embedded above!