Glittery Midnight Blue Eyes and Blunt Side Bangs At Thakoon Fall 2013
For his Fall 2013 collection, designer Thakoon Panichgul decided to blur seasonal boundaries, merging summery firefly and dandelion printed dresses and blouses, many with lace panel inserts, with heavier wintry knits and structured, fur-lined coats and vests and, in some cases, using rich leather and goat skin to create airy pieces with short sleeves or bouncy flared hemlines. In keeping with this conceptual seasonal coalescence, the beauty look created for the Thakoon Fall 2013 show juxtaposed seemingly opposite ideas and, of course, incorporated the quirkiness factor we associate with the brand.
The legendary makeup artist Diane Kendal led the NARS Cosmetics team backstage, creating a look that spoke to the winter versus summer equation, prioritizing a midnight blue base but adding an unexpected lightness and vitality via a coating of glittery pigment.
To create the look, the NARS team started by applying the NARS Radiant Cream Compact Foundation (available Fall 2013) to models’ faces, keeping skin relatively sheer by eschewing the use of blush and bronzer. Next, they focused on the eyes, applying the dark but iridescent midnight blue shade in the NARS Marie-Galante Duo Eyeshadow and blending it with the intense cobalt blue NARS Outremer Single Eyeshadow, working these shades into a slight cat eye shape. They then applied the NARS Ubangi Eye Paint and NARS Black Valley Eye Paint (new for Fall 2013) to the center of the lids and the inner corners so as to create the golden, glittery effect desired. By adding glitter atop the almost abysmal, somber, extremely intense blue shadow color created, then, the NARS team created a look that felt magical and playful, the golden shimmer tones warming up the otherwise cold and strong look. Two new brow products launching in the Fall, the NARS Brow Perfector and NARS Brow Gel, were used to fill in any sparse areas along the brows and to keep hairs in place. Lips, meanwhile, remained bare but for a hint of moisturizer.
The hair look created by Odile Gilbert and the Kérastase team was equally striking: a messy chignon and short, blunt bangs positioned along one side of the head.
To create the look, the Kérastase team started by applying the Kérastase Ciment Thermique to hair and pulling it back into a very tight ponytail. Next, they sprayed the hair inside the ponytail with Kérastase Double Force Hair Spray and worked it into a messy chignon, securing it with a black elastic to look as it it had been tied in place by the model herself. Any ends left peeking out were tucked into the elastic and secured with pins.
Bang extensions were on hand backstage, with each model being allotted extensions in a color that matched her own hair color. These extensions were then cut into varying lengths, some sections reaching about half way down models’ foreheads and other sections chopped to be significantly shorter, creating an almost ladder-like effect. Each bang extension section featured blunt edges for an ultra modern look. These extensions were placed so as to fall along one side of the head and secured in place with glue. The final look was strong and graphic along the front but slightly haphazard along the back — again showing how delicious contrasting notions can be when merged together successfully.
*Photos courtesy of Kessler Studio and NARS Cosmetics