Wavy Hair, Graffiti-Inspired Nails, and Rosegold Lids at Creatures of the Wind Fall 2013
The makeup, hair, and nail looks created for the Creatures of the Wind Fall 2013 show, which took place earlier today at Eyebeam Studios in New York City, touched upon the many concepts that informed the collection – from the references to the bold colors and dynamic street art that typified 1980s youth culture to the Pop Art-influenced, kitschy, and colorful furniture pieces designed by Italian design and architecture group Memphis Group.
On the makeup front, NARS Director of Global Artistry James Boehmer created a look that tapped into the Memphis Group movement’s aesthetic along with other underlying themes in the collection: mainly candy and artificiality. How to translate such abstract concepts via makeup? Boehmer decided that the concept of candy would be created via a contrast between matte and pearl finishes, with colors being bright but not having any real depth and intensity. To that end, he masterminded a makeup look that prioritized matte skin and luminous, rose gold-toned lids. As a nod to the Memphis Group’s aesthetic, he decided to make the apply the eye colors in a triangular shape, thereby adding some unexpected strength to the otherwise understated look.
To create the look, the NARS steam started by moisturizing models’ complexions with the fluid, lightweight NARS Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer, massaging it gently into the skin, and then applying the richer, more dense NARS Luminous Moisture Cream. Next, they applied the Radiant Creamy Concealer (hitting US shelves later thing month) to hide under eye circles and blemishes and applied the NARS Sheer Matte Foundation, setting it with the NARS Loose Powder.
For the eyes, meanwhile, Boehmer relied on a combination of two products. First, using a cream shadow brush, he applied the NARS The Multiple Stick in Maldives, a pink champagne color with shimmer, to lids, brushing the color in a straight line across the lid while models’ eyes were open. Doing so allowed the line to extend along the center of the lid in a crisp line, extending it slightly past the outer corners. Next, he applied the creamy, luminous, iridescent color underneath the lower lash line, connecting the lines along the upper and lower lash lines at the corner as you would while executing a cat’s eye. Next, to attain the desired rose gold color and to create a playful textural juxtaposition, Boehmer applied the NARS Nepal Single Eyeshadow, a dusty rose hue, atop the Maldives Multiple shade, pressing the powdery shadow pigment atop the creamy pigment and allowing the look to remain unblended rather than blending as he moved forward. Brows were brushed up and set with a new clear-colored brow gel debuting for Fall 2013. Lastly, to add just a bit of definition, models’ top and bottom lashes were brushed with the NARS Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara.
Lips, meanwhile, were completely bare but for a touch of the NARS Just Nourishing Eye Cream, which kept pouts supple and smooth.
To hear Boehmer discuss the details of the makeup look created and how to try it at home, check out the video above or click here.
If the makeup was understated, the nails were the exact opposite. CND created three different nail designs for the show, each inspired by 1980s graffiti. Nail artist Roxanne Valinoti and her team spent hours creating press-on nails the night before the show, choosing a shorter length that would register as youthful when applied to models’ hands. Each nail was color blocked along the middle so that the left and right sides featured two different shades. The three color combinations were: white and gray, beige and gray, and orange and beige. To add a dynamic energy to the color blocked motif and infuse a bit of the immediacy of graffiti into the nail design, the CND team then hand-painted a number of wavy lines in contrasting shades like teal, blue, brown, and orange along one half of each nail. Check out Roxanne discussing the nail look in the video embedded above or click here.
The hair look created for the show was similarly youthful and vibrant. Hair stylist Odile Gilbert, spearheading the Kérastase team, created a simple but graphic look that involved giving models a center part, then curling their hair with a three-pronged curling iron.
The Kérastase team started by parting the hair along the center and then applied the Kérastase Ciment Thernique, a heat protective strengthening milk, all over strands. Next, stylists used a three-pronged curling iron, starting about an inch and a half below the center part. While curling each section of hair, they spritzed strands with the Kérastase Double Force finishing spray to give the look flexible hold. Lastly, after releasing the curled sections and brushing hair ever so lightly to create softer undulating waves, stylists applied the Kérastase Elixir Ultime Moringa Immortel, a nourishing oil for damaged hair that tames frizz and makes strands appear lustrous and shiny.
Check out more photos from backstage below!