BCBGMAXAZRIA Explores Its Softer Side For Spring 2014
When most fashion lovers think of BCBGMAXAZRIA, the house that Max and Lubov Azria have built, they envision the power woman: clad in lots of leather and oozing rock ‘n’ roll confidence, her garments themselves a testament to the designers’ body conscious construction. And yesterday morning, as I waited for BCBGMAXAZRIA to showcase its Spring 2014 collection during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York City, I prepared for another super-sexy show.
But, when model of the moment Manuela Frey emerged onto the runway, opening the runway show — her hair tousled in beachy waves, her walk a feathery glide — it set the tone for a fashion homage to a different kind of “it” girl, one with an effortlessly cool aesthetic, an ingénue charm and a warm but aloof attitude. The collection, then, was one of BCBGMAXAZRIA’s softest and airiest.
Deconstructed men’s tailoring was the foundation for many of the looks, which could be described as a relaxed homage to true American sportswear. Asymmetry and volume volume complimented each other: boxy jackets were paired with A-line skirts featuring high-low hems; sleeveless, tea-length trenches were given modern drop waists and side slits that allowed a little leg to sliver through; and baggy mid-calf slacks with vertical center pleats paired with semi-sheer blouses that revealed the female form. The ecru, eggshell, chambray, and blush pink tones used for most of these sportswear-inspired pieces made the pieces feel breezier and lighter, adding to their modern ease.
Though skin did not play as big a role in this collection as it did in prior seasons, the sheer paneling in many of the pieces provided a glimpse of skin, offering the perfect contrast to the predominantly masculine story. As the collection continued to breath life into the morning crowd, beautiful watercolors flickered through the soft color palate, with floral prints adding a nice jolt of color and serving as a transition into the stunning evening looks, which juxtaposed tuxedo influences against flowing maxi-length georgette dresses.
Despite any menswear-inspired overtones, the finale look — a tiered gown crafted out of black silk tulle and featuring intricate beadwork along the bodice— epitomized the sultriness and romanticism of the brand. In the end, the message sent was that the BCBGMAXAZRIA woman can look as sexy in jeans and trousers as she does in a flowing, semi-sheer gown. — Written by Contributing Editor Izzy Ruiz