Transcendent Beauty Look at Creatures of the Wind Fall 2014 Show
At noon on February 6th, the first day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 in New York City, indie label Creatures of the Wind showcased its Fall 2014 collection at Lincoln Center. Two hours before then, the NARS Cosmetics, Kérastase, and buter LONDON teams gathered backstage to start creating the makeup, hair, and nail looks for the show — and, of course, we dropped by to check everything out and get the scoop!
According to NARS Director of Global Artistry James Boehmer, the mastermind behind the makeup look for the show, the predominant inspiration was the concept of transcendence, of leaving the earthly realm and entering a cosmic universe. Science fiction fare comes to mind, but the designers’ interpretation of outer space was softer, more celestial, infused with a hologram-worthy warmth and magic. It wasn’t the expected robotic, futuristic, unfeeling, android-populated, Tron-like vision of the cosmos — if, anything, purity and luminosity were the key elements they hoped to convey. Perhaps, then, the focus was on ascension, on the journey from the physical to the metaphysical, from the earthly to the otherworldly.
To capture these concept of transcendence via makeup, Boehmer created a look that prioritized radiant skin, lit-from-within eyes, and a tawny glossy lip. To create the look, Boehmer started by applying the NARSskin Luminous Moisture Cream, massaging it into models’ faces so as to give their skin a luminosity boost and leave it looking dewy and moist. Next, he applied the NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer and dabbed on a bit of NARS Stick Concealer only where needed (under the eyes, atop blemishes, and so forth). A bit of the NARS Loose Powder was brushed along the T-zone to eliminate excess shine. Last, to accentuate the cheekbones, Boehmer dabbed a bit of Rosebud Salve, thereby making them look a bit shiny without relying on a shimmering highlighter. No blush or bronzer was used, keeping the skin looking rather bare but fresh, hence underlining the notion of innocence and purity.
Similarly, the eye look was rather minimal. To make eyes appear wider and brighter, Boehmer applied the NARS Khao San Road Larger Than Life Eyeliner, a metallic blue hue, along the inner rim of the eye only. The blue shade, when juxtaposed against the whites of the eye, makes the eyes come to life. No eyeshadow was applied to the lids or crease. Instead, the blue liner told the whole story, with the only other products used being two coats of the NARS Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara and the NARS Oural Brow Gel.
As a nod to Princess Leia, who Boehmer remembers as always having this beautiful honey-colored gloss atop her lips, models had tawny pouts. To create the lip look, Boehmer dabbed the NARS Mauritanie Matte Multiple (new for Fall 2014) atop lips, focusing on the center of the pout and pressing the brown-ish, honey-tinged, peachy rose color onto lips using fingers. To give lips the desired sheen, he then applied the NARS Triple X Gloss.
The hair look — designed by Odile Gilbert — consisted of an elaborate braided ‘do, with a thick braid crowning models’ foreheads, extending sideways and leading to a looser braid along the back.
Last, but not least, the nails at the Creatures of the Wind 2014 were a water marbled design created by the butter LONDON‘s Katie Jane Hughes. To create the look, Hughes used a number of muted lacquer shades: Yummy Mummy, All Hail the Queen, and Teddy Girl among them. Once she chose to polishes for the look, she filled a glass bowl with water at room temperature and quickly dropped 1-2 droplets of each shade, allowing them all to converge along the surface of the water and quickly creating a swirling pattern with a toothpick. Next, using a Kiss press-on nail, she gently pressed the nail’s surface against this film, allowing the lacquer to adhere to the nail surface. She then removed the press-on nail from the bowl and set it aside to dry. For every nail used, the process was repeated.
The water marble manicure can, of course, be recreated with one’s own real nails but it’s a very time consuming process so Hughes made sure to rely on press-on nails in order to save time and avoid a potential nail crisis backstage! Because of the artistic nature of this process, every single nail created was slightly different, but they all had that organic yet cosmic charm to them.
Below, check out more of the behind-the-scenes action! And don’t miss our interview with James Boehmer, embedded above, or available here.