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Fresh-Faced Makeup For The Slightly Punk-Flavored, Magical, Underwater Universe At Rodarte SS15




When Kate and Laura Mulleavy were growing up in Monterey, California, their father took them to visit the tide pools along the shoreline, where they could admire sea urchins, patches of purple sand, articulated red coralline algae formations, dense canopies of yellow kelp, anemones with tentacle-like crowns, purplish pink acid seaweed, sand dollars, and more. These memories influenced the designs they created for the Rodarte SS15 collection, which featured a primarily aquatic palette and plenty of shimmering and translucent fabrics, and which incorporated a wealth of textures and finishes meant to pay homage to the wonders of sea life — whether it was raw fringe resembling seaweed or appliqués mimicking star fish. Like mermaids at home in this undersea universe, the models at the Rodarte SS15 runway show flaunted luminous complexions with just a hint of color on cheeks and eyes to create a bit of a sun-kissed effect.

James Kaliardos was the key makeup artist for NARS Cosmetics at the Rodarte Spring 2015 show, where he created a look that emphasized vibrancy and youthfulness via a fresh, radiant complexion. Since there was such a strong emphasis on a luminous complexion, Kaliardos and the NARS team started by prepping models’ skin with the NARSSkin Luminous Moisture Cream and NARSSkin Total Replenishing Eye Cream, massaging these products into the skin. Next, they applied the NARS Radiant Cream Compact Foundation to offer a subtle and believable bit of coverage, and dabbed the NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer atop blemishes and under the eyes. To give the skin a matte finish, they followed by dusting a veil of NARS Pressed Powder atop the complexion. He then used a shade within the NARS St. Paul-De-Vence Duo Eyeshadow  (new for Spring 2015) on the apples of cheeks to give them a golden peach coloring, a just-pinched quality with a sunny, beach-y vibe.

On the eyes, meanwhile, Kaliardos used the right side of the St. Paul-De-Vence Duo Eyeshadow to give lids a sheer, boysenberry-meets-ginger color with a hint of gold shimmer. On models with darker skin tones, he used the NARS Fervor Dual-Intensity Blush (new for Spring 2015) in its lieu. To diffuse the color on the eyes, he then layered the left shade of the NARS  Jubilation Dual-Intensity Blush (new for Spring 2015) atop the primary color, softening the shadow beneath it and infusing it with a luminous glow. To accentuate the lash line while keeping the look earthy and natural, he traced the upper lash line with the NARS Rue Bonaparte Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner and again diffused the color. Last, he applied the NARS Larger than Life Lengthening Mascara to lashes.

Lips, meanwhile, were infused with a touch of creamy color via the NARS Barbara Audacious Lipstick, a rosy nude hue. On models with darker skin tones, he instead used the NARS Vanessa Audacious Lipstick to create a similarly natural effect.

The final look was ethereal and pretty, the perfect complement for the bold and punk-y statement made via eyebrows, which were pierced throughout with silver-toned hoops to give a toughness to the feminine dresses seen on the runway.



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