Skater Girl-Inspired Makeup and Organic Ombré Nails at Creature of the Wind SS15
When meeting with the NARS Cosmetics, butter LONDON, and Bumble and Bumble teams to discuss the various beauty elements for their Spring 2015 runway show, Creatures of the Wind designers Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters brought up the notion of rough-and-tumble skater girls who are effortlessly cool and look beautiful even when sweaty and rocking disheveled hair. This notion, then, was interpreted in everything from the tomboyish, “overheated” makeup look to the textured, teased, and slightly knotty ponytails models donned as they walked down the runway at Pace Gallery yesterday, showing off the new Creatures of the Wind designs.
NARS Cosmetics’ Director of Global Artistry James Boehmer masterminded the makeup look for the show, which he says was influenced by the post summer-vacation glow that models flaunted during the show’s casting, as well as the balminess of their complexions during very humid days (check out the video above in which James discusses the look at length). The focus, then, was on making the models’ complexions appear bronzed and glow-y without it looking like they had applied a touch of makeup.
To achieve this look, the NARS team started by exfoliating models’ skin with the NARS Multi-Action Hydrating Toner, which gives the skin a smooth and even appearance, minimizes the look of pores, and bestows a prism-like effect on the skin for greater radiance. Next, they applied the Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer to hydrate the skin and make it look supple while, again, allowing it to glow thanks to the Light Reflecting Complex in the formula. For a touch of coverage, they then applied the NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer and Stick Concealer as needed. According to Boehmer, Shane and Chris like skin to appear natural and relish in the freckles and marks therein, so they didn’t want the emphasis to be on coverage. Instead, Boehmer says he created “effects” on the skin as opposed to “typical cosmetic finishes.”
The focal point of the look, then, was cheeks, which were given an a sun-kissed yet overheated vibe by using the NARS Ligueria Lipstick (new for Spring 2015), applying the sheer bronze color along the point of the cheekbones. Boehmer said makeup artists made a triangular shape, gliding the lipstick right atop the cheekbone area, then rubbed it down using their fingers to give cheeks a beautiful shine. To create a different texture, they then applied the Vent Salé Lip Gloss (new for Spring 2014), an iridescent golden shade with green undertones, to both lips and eyelids, pressing the color onto the skin with their fingertips. No powder or mascara was applied to keep the look unfussy and laid-back.
butter LONDON Global Colour Ambassador Katie Jane Hughes was on hand to oversee the manicurists creating the look she masterminded for the show, which she described as a “soft, cool, mirage, organic-looking ombré.” To create the look, Hughes started by applying a coat of the Nail 999 Rescue Basecoat, which has a white tint to it that brightens the nail and makes the nail bed appear healthier. Next, she brushed the butter LONDON Full Steam Ahead Nail Lacquer (available November 2014), a stormy gray shade, along the tips of nails to provide a bit of depth before applying the jewel tone that followed. To soften the look, she gently touched the nail at the point where she stopped applying the lacquer, smudging it a bit so as to create a dip-dyed effect. Next, she applied the butter LONDON Diamond Geezer Nail Lacquer, an ultra-shiny silver color to tips, again pressing down on the nails to erase any harsh lines and making sure to let the darker shade come through softly at the tips for a very subtle ombré look with plenty of shine. She finished the look with a coat of the butter LONDON Nail 999 Rescue Topcoat.
Check out the final makeup and hair above and scroll through the photos below for more backstage action shots!