Soft Smoky Eyes And Chocolate-y Red Lips Epitomized Classic Glamour at Naeem Khan Fall 2015
Muted makeup looks have dominated the Fall 2015 runway shows during New York Fashion Week, with models strutting down catwalks with nude or completely bare lips, color-free lids adorned by only a touch of graphic eyeliner, and sheer nude or baby pink nails. Fortunately for those who, like me, yawn at the sight of these minimalist beauty looks, some designers still favored dramatic looks — and Naeem Khan was among these valiant souls. Since the designer was celebrating his 10th year showing at NYFW, he spared no expense to make the event a memorable affair, even commissioning Miami-based graffiti artist Trek 6 to paint a 20′ x 26′ mural inspired by old-school NYC aerosol art. The blue canvas work, which was covered with lines, cloud-like swirls, and throw-ups of Naeem’s name, was close to finished on Monday evening and then tagged up at the beginning of Tuesday’s show as audiences watched in enthrallment. It was Khan’s clever way of paying homage to New York City’s vibrant art culture and to show his respect for all creative forms — from the spontaneity and electricity of graffiti to the extravagance of his own ornate evening gowns. The backdrop, then, served as a genial contrast to the intricately beaded, feather-trimmed, embroidered, and fur-adorned gowns and coats graced the runway, subtly suggesting that art manifests itself in a myriad of ways.
The Mumbai-born designer’s Fall 2015 collection remained true to the designer’s aesthetic, incorporating festive colors like bright corals and chartreuse greens, along with gold and silver pieces, and timeless black-and-white numbers. The silhouettes were demure yet siren-like — from the intricately embellished evening gowns with plunging necklines and thigh-high slits to the fringed, 3/4-sleeved, metallic cocktail dresses; feather-trimmed shift dresses; snow queen-worthy cape gowns; regal, off-the-shoulder, floor-length ball gowns with digital rose prints; and sequin-adorned gold-and-black jumpsuits. One particular dress — a long-sleeved white gown with a high neck and beaded lines in figure flattering shapes — was the stuff of couture dreams.
To capture Khan’s sophisticated aesthetic, James Boehmar for NARS Cosmetics designed a makeup look that conveyed a confident but effortless sensuality. Citing the paintings of Tamara de Lempick inspiration, Boehmer prioritized a soft smokey eye devoid of any hard edges or bold graphic elements, and paired this look with a succulent, decadent-feeling, chocolate-tinged, matte red lip.
First, Boehmer hydrated models’ skin by applying the NARSskin Luminous Moisture Cream and NARSskin Total Replenishing Eye Cream. Next, to give their complexions a dewy, slightly glossy, luminous finish, he applied the NARS Sheer Glow Foundation and dabbed the NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer to camouflage any dark under-eye circles, blemishes, or other imperfections. To seal the look and provide a velvety finish, he then dusted the NARS Soft Velvet Loose Powder all over the face.
On models’ eyes, Boehmer used the NARS Ashes to Ashes Eyeshadow, a violet-tinged brown with plenty of shimmer, sweeping it all over the lids and up to the brows, then gently brushing the color under the lash line. For a bit of depth without any hard lines, Boehmer then used the NARS Bali Eyeshadow, an espresso brown shade with a matte finish, gently buffing it onto outer corners and sweeping it into the crease. To keep the look soft, Boehmer bypassed the eyeliner and mascara, instead focusing on grooming the brows, brushing them upward, and setting them with the Oural Brow Gel.
Last, for the statement-making pout, Boehmer mixed the NARS Mysterious Red Velvet Matte Lip Pencil, a deep crimson red, with the Mambo Eyeliner Pencil, a long-wearing chocolate-y brown, and the Jungle Red Lip Liner, a classic red hue. The combination of creamy and matte textures, along with the mixture of red and brown shades, made for a truly enticing lip look that felt glamorous and timeless — just like Khan’s designs.