Textured Nails And Snow-Covered Lashes At Jonathan Simkhai Fall 2016
Makeup artist Erin Parsons seems to have recalled Maria Von Trapp’s “Favorite Things” when creating the beauty look for the Jonathan Simkhai Fall 2016 show during New York Fashion Week — particularly the “snow flakes that stay on your nose and eyelashes” entry in her list. Spearheading the Maybelline New York team, Parsons created a look befitting of an ice queen, giving the skin an ethereal luminosity and coating lashes with snow dust.
To create the look, Parsons began by giving models near-bare skin, focusing on very light coverage and tons of radiance. She accomplished this feat by applying a thin layer of Maybelline New York’s Fit Me! Dewy + Smooth Foundation, then applying the Dream Lumi Touch Highlighting Concealer below the eyes to eliminate any dark shadows. The key to luminosity, however, was the Master Strobing Stick Illuminating Highlighter (coming in June 2016), which she smoothed and then massaged onto cheekbones and down the center of the nose, then smudged into the inner corners of eyes and in the cupid’s bow. To make this radiance seem all the more natural, as if emanating from within, she then patted moisturizer onto the entire face.
To create flushed cheeks, Parsons and her team relied on a lipstick hue — specifically, the Maybelline Color Sensational The Loaded Bolds Lip Color in Raisin Revival (coming in June 2016) — using a brush to apply the plum wine hue, starting at the top inner corner of the apples of the cheeks and bringing the color down along a diagonal, then blending it into the skin. The color, then, was applied at an angle opposite of that traditionally used when sweeping blush onto cheeks, which helped to give it a sportier, more impromptu feel. Light touches of the same shade were also applied to the temples, the tip of the nose, and the chin, as a nod to the rosiness these areas naturally show after a brisk walk in the cold winter air.
Eyelids were kept bare, while brows were groomed and filled but not in a heavy, overly done way. Instead, Parsons and her team focused on filling sparse areas along the brows using the Define and Fill Eyebrow Pencil, applying quick strokes to resemble real hair strands. To clean and set the look, they then applied one coat of the Maybelline New York Eyestudio Brow Drama Sculpting Brow Mascara in Transparent, a clear gel with a ball brush that combs and separates brows for a neat effect.
The “wow” element of the eye look, then, were the snow-kissed lashes, which were created by applying one very thin coat of the Maybelline New York The Falsies Push-Up Drama Mascara in Brownish Black, then applying snow dust (a theatrical makeup product typically used for cinematic productions) to the tips of lashes to conjure up images of strolls in the snow.
Lips, meanwhile, were kept bare, with just a touch of the Baby Lips Lip Balm in Quenched to keep them smooth and moisturized.
The nail look created by Rita Remark for essie was also simple but striking, relying on eye-catching details. At first glance, the nails were simply painted in hues that abounded in the collection: white, navy, and beige. In fact, Remark did choose coordinating nail lacquer hues, relying on essie’s Find Me An Oasis, a near-white ice blue shade; Wrap Me Up, a whisper soft pink with a matte finish and reflective pearl details; All Eyes On Nudes, a camel-colored nude hue with a soft matte finish; Marshmallow, a cloudy sheer white; and Midnight Cami, a shimmering deep twilight blue.
Remark started by applying the essie Ridge Filling Base Coat to clean and filed nails, then followed by applying two coats of the nail lacquer color selected for each model. Once the polish was dry, she topped off nails with one coat of essie’s Matte About You.
Now, here’s where the fun begins: inspired by the abundance of cozy knits in Jonathan Simkhai’s collection, Remark decided to create a cable knit sweater design on the middle and ring fingers of both hands. To do so, she dipped a striping brush in the essie Gel.Setter Top Coat and drew diagonal “S” shapes down the middle section of the nail. Next, she again dipped the striping brush inside the gel top coat and, this time, drew two evenly spaced vertical lines down the nail, making sure they crossed both sides of the “S” shapes. Last, she focused on the outer sections of the nail, dipping her brush in the Gel.Setter Top Coat and drawing downward diagonal strokes from the outermost vertical lines towards the outer sides of the nails.